Exercise & Training Reference

Proprioceptive patterns that train the full shoulder chain together. D1: hand sweeps from hip to opposite ear. D2: hand sweeps from hip outward and up. Theraband, very slow tempo, 3 sec each way. These mimic functional climbing movement patterns better than any isolated exercise.

Arms slightly forward of body line (30° — the scapular plane). Raise to 90° maximum. Do not go overhead in this phase. This plane reduces impingement risk compared to a strict lateral raise. Targets supraspinatus and middle deltoid. 3–4kg, controlled descent.

Both hands on a 30mm+ edge or pull-up bar. Slight elbow bend — never fully locked. Start at 5 sec hangs with full rest between. This is a gate exercise that tests whether the SLAP can handle decompressive load. Build duration before frequency or load. Stop immediately if sharp pain in the shoulder rather than forearm.

Stand tall, reach right arm overhead to the edge of your pain-free range. Hold 2 seconds, lower. No weight, no forcing. This is pure range-of-motion work — you're mapping where the shoulder tolerates load and expanding it incrementally. Do this every day in Weeks 5–6.

Hold a very light band with both hands overhead. Pull apart horizontally — band stretches as arms separate above your head. Trains the overhead position under minimal load. Start only when unloaded reach is completely pain-free. Light band — this is not a strength exercise yet.

Seated, dumbbell in right hand at shoulder height. Press straight overhead — controlled, full range. 2kg only. This is the first true overhead loading exercise and the gateway back to overhead climbing moves. If this is pain-free for 2 weeks, you're ready for Phase C.

Horizontal traversing on slopers at low wall height. Slopers require active shoulder stabilisation without loading the biceps anchor heavily — excellent proprioception work in a real climbing context. Add from Week 5. Stay low — not above your shoulder height on the traverse.

Sequence: Week 6 = mid-height (elbow 90°) · Week 7 = add lower position if mid-height clean · Week 8 = add upper position. Three sessions pain-free at each angle before progressing. This sequence specifically tests SLAP stability across the full lock-off range. Keep tempo slow — no fast pulls.

Both hands releasing simultaneously to catch a large jug. Not a full dyno — a controlled upward movement where both hands land together. This is the first dynamic move back. Choose your landing hold carefully (big jug, good position). Start Week 8 only.

Start band-assisted, neutral grip (palms facing each other — kinder to the biceps anchor than supinated). 3-second controlled descent. Progress: Wk 11 assisted → Wk 12 bodyweight → Wk 15 add 2.5–5kg. Never sacrifice the descent tempo for weight.

Get to the top position with both arms (or step up). Lower slowly on the right arm alone — 4–5 second descent. Eccentric loading is the most effective stimulus for tendon remodelling. Start 3×4 in Week 13. Don't add weight — the slow tempo is the load variable here.

7 sec hang, 3 sec rest × 6 = 1 set. Two-arm first for 3 weeks, then introduce right-arm singles from Week 14. Half-crimp position. Rebuilds contact strength and finger tendon stiffness lost during the protected phases. Do not start before Week 11.

The SLAP stability milestone. Right arm only, 30mm+ edge, feet lightly touching ground to reduce load. Start 5 sec in Week 12. Build to 10 sec by Week 14 before removing foot assistance. If this is consistently pain-free, the SLAP is coping under real load.

Both hands release simultaneously, both hands land on a large jug together. Controlled upward movement — not a true dyno yet. Choose the landing hold deliberately. 2–3 pain-free sessions before Step 2. Weeks 11–12.

Right hand catches but left arm provides most of the pull. The right shoulder absorbs landing load but isn't the primary mover. This teaches the right shoulder to handle dynamic load in a protected way before it has to do it alone. Week 12.

Full bilateral dyno — both arms pulling, both hands catching. Large jug target. Equal load sharing. This is the first true dynamic move back. Choose your problem/route carefully — you want a predictable, makeable move, not a project attempt. Week 13.

Right arm catches with primary load. Start on jugs, progress to smaller holds over 2–3 weeks. This is the full return to all dynamic climbing moves. If this is clean and pain-free across 3 sessions — the programme has done its job. Week 15 onward.

Pendulum swings 1 min → Band external rotations × 15 → Band internal rotations × 15 → Face pulls or prone YTW × 12 → Cross-body stretch × 30 sec → Unloaded overhead reach × 10. This is not rehab anymore — it's maintenance. Don't drop it when you feel better. This is the difference between staying healthy and re-injuring.